Thursday, August 16, 2018

Fort Necessity and Friendship Hill: Two historic gems in the western hills of Pennsylvania


Connecting the French and Indian War, Lewis & Clark and the National Road



                                                                 Friendship Hill



In the Southwest corner of Pennsylvania, just about an hour shy of the Ohio state line, sit a couple of national park units that may not be on your radar.  I wouldn’t call them obscure, but being from the west coast I had not heard of either until my NPS passport led me there a few months ago.  Treasury Secretary Albert Gallatin’s wilderness house at Friendship Hill National Historic Site and Fort Necessity National Battlefield, a small palisade built by then Lt. Colonel George Washington at the very beginning of the French & Indian War introduced me to history that I was only vaguely familiar with.  Exploring both sites and reading the Park Service’s interpretive panels opened my eyes to what was happening in this part of America back in the late 18th/early 19th centuries.

                                                             Craig at the Liberty Bell

My girlfriend Craig and I had spent most of the week grooving on the Revolutionary war sites in Philadelphia; NPS sites like the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall and Thaddeus Kosciuszko’s home and other interesting sites like Betsy Ross’ House and Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest residential street in America.  We were headed to Ohio to see Craig’s one year-old grandson, so planned our drive west on interstate 68 and then north on highway 40 into Uniontown, where we found food and lodging located centrally to both sites.  Our favorite spot was recommended by a local park ranger and is a great neighborhood Irish pub called O’Gillies. Hidden in a residential part of town, finding it was totally worth the extra effort.  Sitting with a pint of Guinness we planned our park trip for the next day. 

We started our park day with a short 30 minute drive south out of Uniontown to Friendship Hill.  I had heard of Albert Gallatin, but didn’t really know much about him other than Lewis & Clark named a river after him in Montana.  It turns out that Gallatin was a pretty influential guy.  He spent 13 years as Treasury Secretary for presidents Madison and Jefferson and in that role he was key to financing the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 and the Lewis & Clark expedition in 1804.  His importance to that expedition is reflected in Gallatin being the namesake for one of the three rivers that join to form the Missouri…the other two rivers, also named by Lewis & Clark, are the Madison and the Jefferson.

Gallatin was Swiss-born and immigrated to the U.S. in 1780 when he was 19 years old.  He immediately saw the business opportunities in the new United States and got into land speculation.  In 1783, he and a partner looked west and purchased 120,000 acres in Virginia and in the Ohio River Valley.  He bought the 370 acre farm that is now Friendship Hill in 1786.  However, when his first wife died in 1789 shortly after the original brick house was finished, he threw himself into politics and spent less and less time at Friendship Hill.  His political career was extensive.  He served in the Pennsylvania Assembly where he helped write the Pennsylvania constitution, was elected as both a U.S. Senator and a three term Representative to Congress.  Later in life he was the U.S Minister to both France and Great Britain.  He helped negotiate the Treaty of Ghent, which ended the War of 1812 and he was a founder of New York University.  But it was his tenure as Treasury Secretary from 1801 to 1814 that solidified his legacy as one of the great founders of this country.

                                                      Gallatin's desk at Friendship Hill

He wrote “A Sketch of the Finances of the United States” in 1796 that led to establishing the Ways and Means Committee in Congress.  He was an advocate for no public debt and his Treasury tenure saw the national debt cut in half while still financing the Louisiana Purchase and the Lewis & Clark Expedition.  He advocated for and formally suggested a federally funded national system of roads and canals to link the country together in 1808.  While this idea was initially rejected by Congress, the National Road from Cumberland MD to the Ohio River Valley was ultimately started in 1811. 

The first permanent structure built on this bluff above the Monongahela River was a small brick house constructed just before Gallatin’s first wife Sophia died in 1789.  By all accounts she enjoyed living in this wilderness setting.  Once Gallatin got into politics and married Hannah Nicholson of New York City in 1793, he spent less and less time here as both his work responsibilities and Hannah’s dislike of “country living” kept him from Friendship Hill.  He only visited three times from 1801 to 1824.  His last visit was to host the Marques de Lafayette in 1825. 

Even though he spent very little time there, Gallatin was actively engaged in improving the property with an expansion of the original brick house in the 1820s.  But the final construction wasn’t what he had in mind when he was directing the design by letter from France, where he was the U.S. Minister, to his son, who was overseeing the expansion.  One can only imagine the communication challenges of designing a home in the wilderness while living in France when the mail went by boat and horseback and took months to get there.  For the full story, you’ll have to visit in person!  Gallatin sold the property in 1832. 

                                                                 Friendship Hill

Subsequent owners did three more additions, so the place looks like a patchwork quilt more than a well-designed house.  But I thought that’s what made it so cool.  There is so much history in this place, not only Gallatin’s but also of the house itself.  When the National Park Service bought it in 1979, it was pretty run-down and they invested $10 million in building restoration, with additional funds to develop the grounds, which include about 10 miles of trail.  The visitor center has a couple videos that help orient you to both Gallatin’s life and the house.  We spent a several hours exploring the house, hiking the grounds and chatting with the very knowledgeable rangers about this amazing little gem in the Pennsylvania countryside.

About 30 minutes away from Friendship Hill sits Fort Necessity, whose story is also connected to the National Road, but way before Gallatin pushed the idea before Congress.

In 1754, Lt. Col. George Washington, age 22, and a small band of Virginians were sent westward to scout out a road from what is now Cumberland MD to the Ohio River Valley and to support a small British fort built where Pittsburgh stands today.  The fort was built to challenge the French, who also were laying claim to this same territory.  But the French overran this small fort before Washington got there and built a larger one of their own.

                                                     Fort Necessity, inside looking out

So tensions were high when Washington arrived in the region. While scouting out the road, Washington learned of a French encampment near a “Great Meadows” where Washington and his command were camped.  Washington attacked the French, killing their commander.  Fearing reprisals from the French, Washington went back to the great meadows and built a small stockade he called Fort Necessity.  The French attacked Fort Necessity on July 3, 1754. The battle did not go well for Washington and the French accepted Washington’s surrender the next day.  It was the only time in his career that Washington surrendered.  This little skirmish was the first action in both the French and Indian War and the much larger, worldwide Seven Years’ War between France and England.

                                                             Craig at Fort Necessity

The Park Service has re-created the fort so you can walk around the circular stockade and marvel at its small size and see, first hand, how close the enemy was able to approach the fort from the surrounding forest.  It turns out building a fort in the middle of a marshy meadow closely surrounded by forest is not the best defensive strategy.  It is easy to see why the French won.  Attacking Fort Necessity was like shooting fish in a barrel.  The visitor center tells not only the story of Fort Necessity and the French and Indian War, but it also tells the story of the National Road, the same road scouted by Washington and pushed by Secretary Gallatin.  This Visitor Center is one of the best I’ve seen and is not to be missed.

                                                       The author with Albert Gallatin

We found the hiking at Fort Necessity to be really worthwhile, despite the cold weather and remnants of snow on the ground.  Several loop trails lead away from and back to the stockade, winding through the same forest where the French based their attack. And afterwards you can head back down Highway 40, the road Washington pioneered and Gallatin championed, to Uniontown for a cold beer and a chance to reflect on how a summer house and a small fort are remembered and experienced today as two small pieces of the much larger puzzle of our country’s history.

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