I venture off the beaten path into the northern California desert and discover a history of Indian wars and a picturesque landscape of lava tube caves.
Our car was the only one in the parking lot as my girlfriend Craig and I pulled in to Captain Jack’s Stronghold in Lava Beds National Monument last month and unloaded a picnic as the sun dipped low on the horizon.
I love
experiencing wild places with one special companion or a few friends. It
somehow makes wide-open spaces more intimate. And while I credit the heat for
keeping most folks away, it also helps that the park is remote. Not many people
visit the high desert of far northern California in the summer. Like me, you
have to want to go to Lava Beds. It is not on the way to anywhere, but is well
worth the extra effort to visit and experience a little geology and a whole lot
of history.
This site
preserves most of the battlefields from a conflict known as the Modoc War, when
the Modoc Indian leader Captain Jack led an uprising in 1873 against the U.S.
government. This all took place in a jumbled volcanic landscape created by the
massive Medicine Lake Volcano located just south of the Klamath River Basin, a
water-rich environment east of the Cascade Mountains on the Oregon-California
border.
Back in the
day, lots of salmon spawned in the Klamath River and the region's wetlands and
lakes teemed with waterfowl. These rich resources supported a number of tribal
bands including both the Klamath and the Modoc. When white ranchers succeeded
in having the Modocs moved to the Klamath Reservation, it sparked conflicts
between the two native groups, and the Modocs, who wanted their own
reservation, split for their traditional lands at Tule Lake on the Klamath
Basin’s southern edge. When the U.S. Army tried to move the Modocs back to the
Klamath Reservation, shots were fired, people died, and 150 Modoc men, women
and children ran further south into the lava beds.
It’s easy to
see why Captain Jack led his people into the lava beds. The volcanic landscape
was well-known to the Modoc and provided shelter and protection from the
pursuing army.
After our
picnic, Craig and I took the Park Service’s half-mile loop trail into a
well-protected circle of rock known as Captain Jack’s Stronghold. We stood
behind shoulder-high lava bulwarks where Captain Jack and his band of 60 men
held off 1,200 soldiers for over five months. While the Modoc shot dozens of
soldiers, Jack didn’t lose a single man.
As I stood
behind these lava walls, I tried to imagine firing at the advancing army. We
stood at the very spot Captain Jack used for his command post, and we gazed
down into the very lava tube cave where Captain Jack held his war councils
during the siege. We saw the escape route used by Captain Jack before the
Modocs were eventually captured and sent back to the Klamath Reservation. And
we stood in reverence by the medicine flag raised to remind us of the Modoc’s
loss of cultural identity so settlers could graze a few cows.
We had spent
our first night in the area at the Ellis Motel, a cute little establishment
just outside of the town of Tulelake, and took our evening meal at a nearby
restaurant named for Captain Jack — one of the few places to buy a burger and a
beer along Highway 139. As we headed into Lava Beds the next morning, we birded
our way through the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge, a remnant of a much
larger lake that was drained decades ago for agriculture. Now, only about 20
percent of these historic wetlands remain, setting up the current water wars in the
Klamath Basin between farmers and conservationists who want water in the
Klamath River for salmon. As you can well imagine, I’m rooting for the salmon.
After
loading up our cooler in town, we arrived at Lava Beds before noon and easily
scored ourselves a campsite in the shade before setting out for a day of
spelunking. Did I mention it was hot? But visiting Lava Beds National Monument
on a hot day doesn’t really matter, as this is a place of underground caves where
the temperature averages 55 degrees year-round. Created by fairly recent lava
flows (10,500 to 65,000 years ago), lava tube caves emerge as the lava cools
around a river of molten rock and as that molten lava drains out, a cave is
left behind. There are over 700 caves in the monument, the highest
concentration in the contiguous 48 states. And the Park Service has done a
great job of providing easy access to a couple of dozen.
The
always-friendly park rangers at the visitor center suggested a six-cave tour
that would give us differing underground experiences and keep us out of the
heat of the day. One of the caves, Mushpot, is the recommended starter cave as
it is the only one with a lit and paved trail. The others we checked out —
Golden Dome, Sunshine, Valentine and Sentinel (both upper and lower) — required
sturdy shoes, a light jacket, a good headlamp (or two), and no inkling of
claustrophobia. Sentinel is the only one-way cave where you drop into one
opening and, after a half a mile underground, you come out at another opening.
The others we explored were all out-and-back hikes of varying lengths from 500
feet to a third of a mile one way. Where needed, the Park Service has installed
stairs to get you to the bottom of the cave. And if you didn’t bring a light,
they’ll loan you one.
With
headlamps lighting the way, we marveled at the smoothness of the walls in some
caves. Other caves were covered in dripping lava, like wax down the side of a
candle. In Golden Dome, a special bacteria reflected a golden light, making the
roof of the cave sparkle like a gilded ceiling in a wealthy mansion. Sunshine
cave has several breaks in the ceiling allowing small patches of light to
penetrate to the cave floor where a few hearty plants are able to survive.
Sometimes we walked on sand, sometimes we needed to carefully pick our way
through the rocks. And when we turned our lights off it was REALLY dark.
We did see
some folks in hard hats, thick leather gloves and knee pads – serious cavers
who were exploring what the Park Service lists as the “most challenging” caves.
We weren’t into crawling over rock and squeezing through tight places, so we
stuck with the “least” and “moderately” challenging caves where you only had to
duck or duck-walk in a few places.
At Lava Beds
we discovered a little history, a little geology, and lots of opportunity to
explore. And as the sun set on the muted greens and gray of the juniper and
sagebrush at Captain Jack’s Stronghold, we plotted out the next stamps in our
National Park Passport — a visit to Lassen Volcanic National Park and then on
down to San Francisco for a seashore and a couple of old forts.
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